Queenstown: Finishing with a Flourish

It was with mixed emotions that we arrived in Queenstown, the final destination of our trip. Of course we were excited to be in New Zealand’s tourist mecca and adventure capital. With trips to the stunning Milford Sound and legendary Fergburger among our lineup, it’s safe to say it was going to be a good week. But the prospect of our impending journey home and the conflicting thoughts it inspired constantly hung over our heads. Excited to see our families. Nervous about starting (or in my case, finding) work. Sad that the trip of a lifetime had gone by so quickly. And downright depressed at the thought of the 30+ hour journey home. Despite all this we were determined to have the best week ever, and go out with a bang. And that’s just what we did.

Things got off to a great start, with our first evening consisting of a trip to Fergburger followed by movie night at our hostel (Southpaw – worth a watch!). We had managed to bag beds at the incredibly in demand Adventure Queenstown Backpackers, and were impressed from the off-set. Flash ensuite bathrooms, free unlimited WiFi, personal USB charging points, reading lights, free towels, two (!!!) pillows. It was clear to see why they are always fully booked. You can even rent GoPro’s and iPads free of charge. Need I say more? With Fergburger ticked off the list (not that we were ruling out a return visit, it was so delicious), we turned our attention to the rest of our itinerary. Milford Sound, skiing and the gondola and luge track were our top priorities, so bright and early on our first morning we set about inquiring at various tour companies. We had little difficulty in organising a day trip to Milford Sound, but unfortunately the same cannot be said for skiing. A clear indicator of our inexperience, we had budgeted $250 for two days of lessons and gear rental. We were optimistic, to say the least. Mentally calculating the total cost as a member of hostel staff reeled off the daily prices, we were shocked. It came to $400. Perhaps that’s just one particular resort, we reasoned. But, after leaving several tour companies having been quoted a similar figure, we were forced to concede that we just had not budgeted enough. As total beginners one days worth of lessons would get us nowhere, and so seemed totally pointless. Perhaps it was time to reconsider our plans.

Commonly tipped to be the most stunning part of New Zealand, we had high hopes for Milford Sound and the Fiordland National Park. A casual 300km from Queenstown, we were praying it was worth the journey. For a mere $30 extra we upgraded to the VIP tour package, meaning we were treated to reclining seats, extra leg room and a glass roof to take in those mountain views. Comfort, we decided, was the number one priority if we were going to spend 10 hours on a bus. It was a day full of surprises. The scenery as we passed through the National Park was so utterly breathtaking that, in all honesty, Milford Sound itself didn’t quite measure up! Not that this mattered, as our friendly bus driver stopped plenty of times to allow us photo opportunities:

 

Once we had finally arrived at Milford, it was time to embark on our scenic cruise. 1 hour and 45 minutes seems like an awfully short time after making such a long journey, but it was totally worth it. We couldn’t have picked a more beautiful day to enjoy all that Milford had to offer:

It’s no surprise that this is commonly considered to be one of the most beautiful parts of New Zealand, and indeed the world. To say that we were glad we had decided to make the trip would be an understatement. Money and time well spent! By the time we arrived back in Queenstown it was 8:30pm, so cooking was clearly out of the question… instead, we decided to test out Ferburger’s rival restaurant, Devil burger. Akin in price and quality, the only thing that sets them apart is the wait time. In the 14 years that it’s been open Ferburger has achieved worldwide recognition for it’s food, becoming a bustling tourist hub. Nothing testifies this better than the queue, which almost always stretches halfway down the street. Conversely Devil Burger is much lesser known, meaning you are able to order instantly and actually sit down to eat your food! The burger was delicious, but it didn’t quite measure up to Fergburger. Perhaps it’s the atmosphere, and the heightened anticipation that comes with the half an hour wait. Whatever it is, the guys behind Fergburger must be raking it in. They’ve even set up Fergbakery and Mrs Ferg Gelataria next door (of course, we had to sample both. They’re equally delicious). As you can tell, it didn’t take us long to figure out that Queenstown is more than adequately equipped for the hoardes of hungry skiers and revellers that are constantly passing through.

On that note, I’ll return to our skiing predicament. $250 may not have bought us two days of ski lessons, but it sure paid for a lot of alternatives, and then some! After a lengthy peruse on bookme.com (New Zealand’s Groupon equivalent), we had bagged ourselves a host of bargains. Ice skating for $10, jet boating for $59, and entry and a cocktail at Queenstowns ice bar for $15, plus a trip to the cinema. More than enough to keep us entertained. Speaking of entertainment, Josh got to witness my ice skating skills for the first time, much to his amusement. Still, I was proud. I managed to skate the entire circumference of the ice rink without clinging to the sides or falling over. A personal best! With so many activities on offer it’s easy to overlook the beauty of Queenstown itself. Bordered by snowy mountains and the beautiful Lake Wakatipu, it’s certainly a beautiful place to explore. As well as strolling around the lakefront we hiked up Queenstown hill, which afforded some beautiful views of the landscape:

But that clearly wasn’t enough for the fitness fanatics among us (Josh, of course, not me) who decided that running would be an even better way to see the scenery. My jaw dropped when, after six months of no exercise, Josh returned and informed me that he had run 16km to the airport and back. In my current shape I think I’d struggle to run to the end of the road! Amidst all the fun there were a few grown up duties to attend to, such as car insurance and phone contracts. A taste of reality! With so much going on it’s no surprise that our final day was upon us before we knew it, and what a final day it was.

We had reserved (what we hoped to be) the best activities for our final day: the jet boating and the luge. As we boarded the 750 horsepower vessel we were both excited for the adventure and anxious that we wouldn’t be able to keep our breakfast down. After one hour of intense twists and several 360 degree turns, it was a close call, but it was most definitely worth it. It was without a doubt one of the most fun things we had ever done, so in a way not being able to ski turned out to be a blessing! Our awesome day continued with the luge run. Racing down an 800 metre track laid out on the sharp gradient of a mountain, what’s not to like?! The views weren’t too bad either:

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Of course, Josh disregarded the racing rules, promptly overtaking me despite my best efforts to block him, and continuing to do so on every race (we had 5). I’m not one for a cheesy catchphrase but I had to admit, theirs was pretty spot on: once just isn’t enough! Even five wasn’t enough! Our final day had been everything we wanted, and we had definitely achieved in our goal of ending on a high.

With that, we come to our final morning in New Zealand. Or mourning, I should say! One thing we were definitely not sad to say goodbye to was the assortment of dirty, holey, smelly clothes and shoes we had been lugging around with us for half a year. With our bags considerably lighter, and our hearts heavy, there was time for one final fergburger feast, before we made our way to the airport. It hasn’t sunk in yet, and probably won’t until we have been settled at home for a while, that the journey is over. But, without question, this adventure has inspired a thirst for many more in the future. See you in three flights and about thirty eight hours time, UK!

Wandering Wanaka

It’s no secret that any successful ski or snowboard getaway requires just two key components: mountains and nightlife. So with it’s bountiful supply of bars and Cardrona ski resort just half an hour away, it’s no wonder Wanaka is fast becoming a rival for Queenstowns title as New Zealand’s adventure capital. And if that’s enough, there’s the usual offering of skydiving, jetboating and rafting to keep the adrenaline flowing. If skiing and throwing yourself out of a plane aren’t on your agenda, as they weren’t ours, then the mountainous scenery certainly makes for some beautiful hikes. Now, before I continue, I feel obliged to explain something. I understand it may sound as if a pattern has been emerging of late, in terms of our shunning activities and excitement in favour of scenic walks and quiet evenings. I assure you, we aren’t boring (or at least not completely!) It just so happened that most of the big activities we wanted to do in the south island (the Franz Josef glacier hike, Milford sound, skiing) would all be occurring towards the end of our stay, which made for a quiet time leading up to this.

The winter months may see a lull in New Zealand’s usual flow of tourists, but it’s ski resorts are incessantly heaving. Which is why, for the first time in since we had arrived, we found our first choice of accommodation to be unavailable. And second. And third. In fact, every single backpackers in Wanaka was sold out, with the exception of Flying Kiwi. Now, considering it was a last resort, it could have been a lot worse. It was very basic, lacking any homely touches or helpful extras. But it was clean, well equipped and the beds were comfy, so we counted ourselves lucky. The only downside was our snoring roommates, but we couldn’t blame the hostel for that! We used Wanaka as a base to visit Franz Josef, staying two nights either side of our visit to the glacier. Or at least, that was the plan. Similarly to Tekapo, beautiful scenery is in no short supply in Wanaka. But if you aren’t skiing or skydiving, there aren’t too many more options for things to do. As always we were keen to get out and experience some of Wanaka’s beautiful scenery, so we decided to complete two of the best scenic walks in the area: the Mount Iron lookout and the lakefront loop. Standing 250 metres above the town of Wanaka Mount Iron certainly affords some impressive views of the surrounding scenery:

The scenery is equally beautiful from ground level, as we witnessed whilst walking around Lake Wanaka. In particular one section of the lake has become something of a hotspot for tourists, particularly the more snap-happy kind. The tree in the lake, a lone willow that stands some fifteen metres out in the lake. Perhaps not the most incredible sight, but certainly a beautiful and photogenic one:

As I mentioned earlier, the plan was to spend two nights in Wanaka either side of our Franz Josef stay. But when it came to our return trip, we were unsure that we would need two days. With the scenery explored, there was little left for us to do, and two nights back in the Flying Kiwi (snorer was still there!) was a less than appealing prospect. Our final destination, we had been holding back on money and activities in order to maximise our experience in Queenstown, the final week of our trip. So it was decided, and a few emails and alterations later, everything was in place. We would stay the one night in Wanaka, and then make our way directly to Queenstown. Let the final week of fun begin!

Fruitless Franz Josef

To say that the village of Franz Josef attracts tourists purely on the basis of visiting it’s namesake, the Franz Josef glacier, would be no overstatement. A scattering of restaurants and a single supermarket make up the totality of the local amenities, leaving little in the way of activities or entertainment. Still, one of New Zealand’s most famous natural phenomena, a day spent hiking the glacier is a must-do by any backpackers standards. For this reason we went to great lengths to arrange a visit, forking out an additional $80 for transport and taking a 6 and a half hour detour from our otherwise logical route.

Unfortunately, visiting New Zealand’s notoriously tempestuous West Coast in the depths of winter is the definition of a gamble. As we journeyed across country towards the rainforest region it seemed every mile accelerated the sky’s transition from blue to grey. Not a good sign. By the time we reached the village of Franz Josef any suggestion of sunshine had completely faded, and so had our hopes of hiking the glacier. Within an hour of our arrival the rain had begun and, as I’m sure you’ve gathered by now, it refused to abate for the entire duration of our stay. Due to rapid ice-melt the glacier is now only accessible by helicopter, meaning optimal visibility, wind and weather conditions are essential. So despite our best efforts, we were unable to hike the glacier, and were faced instead with the prospect of two very long and uneventful days in Franz Josef.

Our timing may have been less than ideal weather wise, but it appeared that in terms of our hostel at least, it was pretty much perfect. Not only were we informed that we would be the first to test out the brand new mattresses that had just been delivered, we also had the dorm totally to ourselves for two of our three nights stay. With fast and free unlimited wifi, at least we could catch up on Netflix and spend a few days relaxing in peace. As well as the extra time on our hands, not doing the hike left us $325 better off, so we decided to treat ourselves to a rare meal out (and we definitely did NOT order pasta!)

As you can deduce from this decidedly short summary of our time in Franz Josef, I wasn’t exaggerating when I said that there is nothing to do in the town besides visit the glacier. Of course, taking into account the extra money and time we had invested in travelling to Franz Josef, the outcome was deeply disappointing, but not totally unexpected. After all, they don’t call it a rainforest for nothing! Tails between our legs we headed back to Wanaka, hoping we would have better luck with the remaining activities we had planned.

Tekapo: Mountains and Monopoly Madness

From the moment we stepped off the bus, Tekapo took our breath away. Set against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains and pine forests, all mirrored in a sparkling turquoise lake, you couldn’t picture a more quintessentially Kiwi town if you tried. Of course, the beautiful alpine scenery attracts a regular flow of visitors, but you wouldn’t know that from looking around. The town appears relatively untouched by tourism, sporting a single strip of shops consisting of a supermarket, a fuel station, and several cafes and restaurants.

The further south we travelled, the more we began to feel the cold creeping up on us, but thankfully our hostel was the perfect winter warmer. The beds were heaped with enough blankets to supply an arctic survival mission, and the common area was continually fed by a roaring log burner. A pleasant change of pace, the guys at Tailor Made Tekapo Backpackers had chosen to shun the standard bunk bed system, instead kitting the dorm out with rows of single beds. The result was that it felt like having a giant sleepover. Only with strangers. Who snore. We were even treated to individual bedside tables, lamps and plug sockets, a rare luxury! Unfortunately, despite all it’s redeeming qualities, the hostel did have one major flaw: the wifi. We tried our best to stifle our groans as the receptionist informed us that our free allocation was 100mb a day, after which an additionall 500mb could be purchased for just $2. Now, considering most mobile phone contracts include 1gb of data per month, this sounds like a fair deal. However, we had already experienced this particular wireless provider, Zappie, so we knew what to expect (or not expect!) 100mb, as we later proved, lasted a mere 10 minutes. 20 at a push, if you avoid videos, and sending media. In short, it was totally pointless. At first we were a little lost, wandering around contemplating how to fill our technology free evenings. After all, in 2015 internet is prioritised among the most basic  of commodities like water and oxygen. Luckily we discovered the hostel’s collection of board games, which ended up entertaining us for the majority of our stay. What started as one casual game of Monopoly escalated into a ferociously competitive tournament, spanning the three evenings we were in Tekapo.

If you’re a regular follower of our blog, you’ll know that prior to our arrival in Tekapo I had been placed on antibiotics for a severely swollen ankle, and instructed to rest it for the next two days. This presented no issue for our first day, which was spent settling in, unpacking and getting groceries. However, the weather forecast for our second day was sun, sun and more sun. Ideal conditions to take the 3 hour round trip up to the summit of Mount John, which provides panoramic views of Lake Tekapo and the many mountain ranges in the distance. After being forced to forgo the peninsular walk in Kaikoura, I was determined not to miss out on any more. The swelling was already subsiding, and the pain was gone, which was enough of a green light for me! Steep but otherwise easygoing, I managed to complete the walk without avoiding further injury. The views were incredible, and we indulged in a treat at the (strategically placed) summit cafe, making it well worth the walk. Mount John was just one of many walks available in Tekapo, of which Josh decided to explore more of on our second day. Not wanting to push my luck I decided to be sensible, and spend the day resting my foot, which turned out to be a wise decision. Sat in front of the fireplace, warm and dry, I couldn’t help but feel slightly smug when I heard the first raindrops hitting the window pane. Sorry Josh!

Once the scenery had been explored there was just one more thing to tick off our list: stargazing. Having recently been awarded the status of UNESCO dark-sky reserve, Tekapo is widely considered to be one of the best stargazing spots on the planet. Gloves, hats and scarves donned and torches in hand, we made our way out into the night and down to the lakefront. It’s no secret that the best stargazing spot is atop Mount John, where an observatory has been established by Canterbury University. But, frankly, it was cold and dark, and we didn’t fancy paying $129 for an official stargazing tour, so we made do. We were too close to town to avoid the light pollution, but it was a beautiful sight nonetheless, rivalled only by the incredible sky we had witnessed on Fraser Island.

With that we had pretty much exhausted all of the things to do in Tekapo, and were looking forward to our next adventure (and unlimited wifi!) So when we awoke on the morning of our departure, we were understandably horrified by the scene that greeted us:

Normally waking up to snow is a cause for excitement, as we pray that our schools/workplaces are closed for the day. However, in the middle of New Zealand’s winter snow only spells one thing: road closures and transport cancellations. In a tiny town with little to do and no free internet, the last thing we wanted was to be stranded for an extra day and night. Our bus wasn’t scheduled to depart until 1:40pm, so we spent the morning nervously watching from the window, muttering silent prayers for the snow to subside. And it seemed that someone heard us, because by some divine miracle it did indeed stop. By the time we made our way down to the bus stop the roads were clear, and the sun was well on it’s way to reducing the snow to a mess of grey slush. Close call!

Thrillseekers in Taupo

With such stunning countryside it’s no wonder scenic walks are in no short supply in New Zealand, with the Tongariro Alpine Crossing topping many lists as the best and most beautiful one day hike. A 19.4km track sees you ascend and descend the entire length of Mount Tongariro, taking in the panoramic views of crater lakes and neighbouring volcanic peaks (including Mount Ngauruhoe, or as it’s more commonly known, Mount Doom). There are some steep climbs involved, but with a well beaten path and even some staircases to help, most find it more than manageable:

(http://www.tongarirocrossing.org.nz/tongariro-alpine-crossing-track.html)

However, in the depth of winter it’s a different story altogether. Any trace of a path is removed, obscured by fresh snow reaching depths of up to 1.5 metres. In such conditions it’s virtually impossible to undertake the trek without the help of a guide and the appropriate equipment. Not wanting to miss out, we decided to give it a go, and booked a guided tour with a well recommended company called Adrift. It was only once we were kitted out with helmets, crampons, ice axes and what felt like a dozen layers that we realised how severe the weather conditions were going to be. Indeed, arriving at the base of the track our guide informed us that it was approximately -4 degrees, with a wind-chill factor of -10 *gulp*. Still, with all the snow the scene couldn’t have been more picture perfect:

And so we began the long ascent. The 8km climb to the peak was slippery and gruelling, taking approximately 5 hours to complete. We even lost a couple of people along the way due to cramp and pulled muscles. After such a long hard stretch, we were gutted when our guides announced that we would not be continuing for safety reasons. The conditions had changed considerably, they explained, and the snow was now loading on the side we would be descending on, increasing the risk of an avalanche. Disheartened, we turned around and began to trudge back down the way we had come. By the time we had reached the bottom once more, we had covered a distance of 16km, so not too far off the length of the orignal course. Nevertheless, we were suitably frustrated at not having completed the whole track. But, as our guide pointed out, they had been cancelling the trip entirely for the last week or so due to bad weather, so we were lucky to have made it as far as we did. Back in Taupo, munching on a (well deserved!) dominoes pizza, we reflected on the experience. Put into perspective, the views alone had been worth the hike, and the physical challenges had made it all the more rewarding. We hope to visit the park again in the future, this time in the summer, to pick up where we left off and finish the crossing.

From the very start, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing had been on our list of things to do in Taupo. Something that had not crossed our minds, however, was the possibility of white water rafting. That is, until we bumped into a couple we had previously met in Paihia, who were raving about their recent rafting experience on the Tongariro river. And that is how, in a moment of spontaneity, we found ourselves sat in the office of Rafting New Zealand, listening to our safety brief and memorising the protocol for falling out of the raft. In the dead of winter, rafting a river that is fed by snow covered mountains, I was far more concerned about the prospect of pneumonia than falling out. But the experts had thought of everything, and we were layered up accordingly: swimwear, fleece, wetsuit, second fleece, waterproof jacket, socks, boots, gloves and a beanie. As luck would have it, we were the only two people to have booked for that day, meaning we were treated to a private tour! Lugging the raft down to the riverbank, our guide, Owen, explained that we would be completing a 2 hour course involving 54 rapids. We couldn’t wait to get started! It didn’t take long before we had picked up the basics, and were cruising along like professionals (or so we liked to think):

If you couldn’t tell from the photo, we had an absolute blast. Skydiving and bungee jumping seem to have become something of a rite of passage for those visiting New Zealand, but at approximately a fourth of the cost and allowing us to appreciate the beautiful scenery at the same time, rafting was definitely the better option for us. Maybe we should act on impromptu decisions more often! After two days of back to back adventuring, we were suitably wiped out after our stay in Taupo. At least the five hour journey to Wellington gave us a chance to catch up on some well needed rest!

A Ramble in Rotorua: Glowworm Grottoes and Hobbit Holes

It’s no secret that New Zealand was the setting for much of Sir Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings adaptations. The combination of rolling green hills and snow topped mountains provided the perfect backdrop for the adventures of Frodo and his comrades. There are many spots around the country that have become points of pilgrimage for fans of the franchise, but it’s clear that there is one in particular that stands out. It was the Alexander family farm, located in the small village of Matamata, that inspired the directors vision for the hub of hobbit life, the shire. For the duration of the Lord of the Rings trilogy, and again for the Hobbit trilogy, the farm was transformed into the countryside haven of Tolkien’s imagination. Capitalising on the popularity of the films, the Alexander family chose to maintain the Hobbiton set as a permanent tourist attraction, thus immortalising this iconic part of middle earth:

And so it was that we found ourselves wandering around the shire, poking our heads into hobbit holes and meandering through garden patches. We even stopped for a drink in the Green Dragon! Unfortunately, as with most tourist attractions, the set was seriously crowded, and the tour rushed. As stalwart fans of both the books and the films we agreed it would have been better to have the option to tour the village at our own leisurely pace, but it was an incredible experience nevertheless, and we returned with a smile on our faces (if damp from the rain). And what could be a more fitting way to spend the remainder of the afternoon than curled up on the sofa, watching the first installment of the trilogy. It would seem that all hostels in New Zealand are prepared for the onslaught of Lord of the Rings fans, ensuring their DVD inventory is stocked with the full trilogy (much to our appreciation).

In addition to the mountains and green fields showcased in the Lord of the Rings, New Zealand’s richly diverse landscape is made up of impressive glaciers, lakes, volcanoes and geysers. The country is rife with geothermal activity, something that Rotorua in particular is famed for. As you arrive in the town a distinctive smell assails your nostrils that any keen scientist or geographer would recognise: Sulphur. Initially overwhelming, the strength of the smell is a good indicator of the extent of Rotorua’s geothermal action. Indeed, it is home to the famous Pohutu geyser, the largest geyser in the Southern Hemisphere capable of reaching heights of 30 metres:

Of course, as is the case in any country with a booming tourism industry, access to the geyser is only available through a handful of ‘geothermal parks.’ We chose to visit Te Puia, an impressive 70 hectare site that hosts an array of naturally occurring geothermal displays, including bubbling mud pools and hot springs. As well as showcasing geothermal wonders, Te Puia prides itself on being a Maori cultural centre. As we roamed the park we learnt of the many ways Maori tribes utilised geysers in everyday life, most interestingly for steaming food. Unfortunately the option to sample this method of cooking lay considerably outside our budget, so we stuck to our (much less glamorous) packed sandwiches!

Maintaining the theme of New Zealand’s natural phenomena, we made sure to schedule a visit to the village of Waitomo, a region famed for it’s abundance of caves. Of course, attracting thousands of tourists every year, these are no ordinary caves. Deep inside them dwells the native New Zealand glowworm, lighting up the dark in their masses. Many backpackers, perhaps keen to prove their adventurous side, opt for an abseiling/caving experience. Personally, we were content to witness the beauty of the glowworms in their natural setting, and took the tamer (and cheaper!) option of a standard tour. We consciously booked with a company that visit privately owned caves in small groups, to avoid the oversubscribed tour scenario we had experienced in Hobbiton. It turned out there would be just 12 of us visiting the caves that day, ensuring we could explore at our leisure. After donning our fetching helmets, complete with head torches, we began to make our way through the gloom, passing impressive stalactite and stalagmite formations along the way. Once deep inside, our guide instructed us to turn off our torches, and look up. A few minutes adjusting to the darkness was all it took before we began to register bright spots appearing above our heads, growing in number until the roof appeared as a sky of turquoise stars. Stood silently as if in a trance, we marveled at the breathtaking sight before us. Unfortunately, our substandard cameras were unable to distinguish the glowworms from the darkness, but thankfully our tour guide provided us with some professional photos, so we could share the magic we witnessed:

Our stay in Rotorua opened our eyes to some of New Zealand’s most stunning natural phenomena, leaving us awe-struck again and again. And this was just the start! Next up was the volcanic region of Taupo, famed for it’s stunning mountainous scenery and national parks. But first we had to wrench ourselves away from our amazing hostel, Rock Solid Backpackers, a steal at just $19 a night and by far the best equipped hostel we’ve ever stayed in.

Cairns: The End of the East Coast Road

When we first arrived in Australia, everyone’s response to our bemoaning the weather was: “don’t worry, it will get warmer as you travel north.” So we had held out hope, eagerly testing the air as we arrived at each new destination. True, the temperature had grown slightly milder, but it wasn’t until we arrived in Cairns that we were finally able to cast off the jumpers and dig out our long lost flip flops. Considering our plans for our final destination in Australia stretched no further than chilling out and squandering our remaining spending money, the weather fitted in pretty perfectly. Equally ideal was our hostel, Travellers Oasis which, as the name suggests, provides the perfect refuge for those seeking relaxation as opposed to a party hostel. Complete with a swimming pool, hammocks, movie room and outdoor BBQ area, we questioned whether we would need to go out at all!

Of course, that isn’t to say that there aren’t any exciting activities you can do in Cairns. As well as the obvious snorkelling/scuba diving on the barrier reef, there are day trips to Port Douglas and the Kuranda rainforest on offer, to name a few. Unfortunately these activities lay just outside of our remaining budget, not that we were too disheartened. In four weeks we’d managed to tick off the Sydney Harbour Bridge climb, the Blue Mountains, Australia Zoo, Fraser Island and the Whitsundays, plus loads of stops in between. A pretty awesome trip! From the early stages of planning we had always maintained realistic ideas about how far our time and money would stretch. So rather than seeing them as missed opportunities, we saw the things we hadn’t got round to doing as reasons to revisit in the future. What money we did have leftover was spent treating ourselves to a few meals out and some fruit ciders, a classy upgrade from the usual goon (wine in a bag)! To compensate, we utilised the waterfront esplanade for daily runs, as well as taking advantage of the free gym equipment. We soon realised that months without exercising had left our once physically fit body’s in pretty poor shape, and vowed to continue running several times a week for the remainder of our trip. A blissful few days with a little indulgence was the perfect way to round off our time in Australia, and to perk ourselves up again in time for what was sure to be an action packed 6 weeks in New Zealand.

It was incredible to think that as our stay in Cairns drew to a close, so too did our time in our sixth country. Australia had re-acquainted us with the normalities of the western world, both good and bad, and for that it was at a slight disadvantage. Southeast Asia had been colourful, cultural, crazy and most importantly, cheap, everything Australia was not. When you’re hopping from country to country and continent to continent It’s almost impossible to sit back and judge a place impartially, and, regrettably, I’ll admit that the profound affection I had come to feel for Southeast Asia affected my perception of Australia. In the interest of fairness I would point out that Josh and I disagree on this point, proving that a country really can appeal to people differently. One thing we could both agree on, however, was how excited we were for the next (and final!) chapter of our adventure, New Zealand.

A Whitsunday Wash-out

Pure white silica sand. Calm turquoise waters. Blue skies. These are just a few of the images synonymous with the Whitsundays, a string of around 70 paradise islands located just off the great barrier reef. Understandably, the islands are extremely popular with tourists and not to be missed on a visit to Australia’s east coast. After striking gold with a great tour company and amazing weather for our tour of Fraser Island, we were hoping our luck would hold out for the Whitsundays. However, assessing the grey skies and rough waters as our boat sailed away from the mainland, our hearts instantly sank. Yes, as I’m sure you have guessed from the title, we were struck by a bout of bad weather that lasted the duration of our tour of the Whitsundays. What should have been a fun and relaxing trip, lounging in the sun whilst sailing around tropical waters, turned into cowering from the rain whilst attempting to keep the sea-sickness at bay. Unfortunately beaches just aren’t something you can enjoy and appreciate in bad weather, and after spending a considerable amount of money on the tour, we were suitably disappointed.

The most popular destination in the Whitsundays and considered by many to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, our first stop was Whitehaven beach. Despite the less than favourable weather conditions the stretch of white sand and azure water still made for an impressive view, although we couldn’t be tempted in for a swim. Thankfully we had more luck with the snorkeling. We donned our fetching stinger suits (a necessity due to the high numbers of sting rays and jellyfish in the area), and plunged into the water. Due to their close proximity to the great barrier reef the Whitsundays make for a bountiful snorkelling spot. We found ourselves swimming among an array of fish, a few jellyfish and even a turtle but, much to our relief, no man-eating sharks! Unfortunately the water temperature was less than comfortable, and our stinger suits provided merely a thin layer of insulation, so we managed just half an hour before the lure of a dry towel became too much.

The real saving grace of the trip was the awesome bunch of people we spent it with, some of whom we already knew from our Fraser island tour. Our evening’s were spent in a state of moderate intoxication enjoying a range of activities including flip cup and karaoke, which helped distract us all from our mutual disappointment over the rest of the tour. It’s fair to say that the end of the two days couldn’t come quick enough, and we arrived back on the mainland cold, wet and definitely not having found our sea legs! After getting over the initial disappointment of being let down by both the tour company and the weather, we consoled ourselves with the promise of returning to the Whitsundays in the future, ensuring we take a little more care when planning both the season and travel agent.

Fraser Island: Dunes, Dingoes and Drinking Games

Throw together a group of twenty-something backpackers. Add booze, beaches and off-roading vehicles into the equation, all set against a backdrop of breathtaking natural beauty, and you’re onto a winner. This perfectly balanced combination of fun, relaxation and adrenaline is precisely what makes the Fraser experience so memorable. At the end of our trip, despite still having a week and a half to go in Australia, we were confident it would be the overall highlight of our time on the East Coast.

The world’s largest sand island, spanning a whopping 130km in length, Fraser has it all. Not only is it’s ecosystem rich in a variety of flora and fauna, it’s also a totally isolated example of tall rainforest growing on sand. Add to the list mile long beaches and sparkling freshwater lakes, and it’s easy to see why this amazing island was awarded the status of UNESCO world heritage site in 1992. Due to it’s sandy composition there are no roads on Fraser, meaning jeeps are the most practical, reliable (and fun!) way of getting around the island. After splitting into groups and loading up on all the essentials (burgers, cornflakes and lots of alcohol), we were ready to begin our adventure. We took part in a tag-along tour which, as the name suggests, involves a convoy of jeeps following a tour guide in the lead vehicle. Fortunately for us our guide, Rango, was a real Fraser veteran, who had been operating tours like ours for years and had a wealth of knowledge to prove it. During our three days he made sure we saw all of the highlights Fraser has to offer.

First up were some of the island’s 100 freshwater lakes: Birrabean, Boomanjin and Wabby. Rango was quick to educate us about the purity of the lake-water, and how it’s translucence means it’s colour appears to differ according to that of the sky. Fortunately we were blessed with sunshine and cloudless skies for the duration of our visit, creating the perfect conditions to witness the crystal clear waters capture the bright blue shade of the sky. The exception to this rule was lake Boomanjin. A natural phenomenon, the water of lake Boomanjin has been dyed a reddish-brown colour, due to surrounding vegetation encroaching on the lake. Over the course of our tour we continued to be awed by the island’s natural beauty. We visited the pinnacles, a series of coloured rock formations with aboriginal significance, the champagne pools (which we were dissapointed to discover contained no alcohol), the historic Maheno shipwreck and many small creeks and lookouts. As well as jaw-dropping scenery, Fraser island also plays host to an impressive array of wildlife. Sharks, dolphins, whales, turtles, pelicans, soldier crabs and rare black cockatiels were just some of the species we were lucky enough to spot during our time on the island. Sadly due to a decline in numbers in recent years we missed out on the chance to see one of the island’s wild dingoes, considered to be some of the purest in Australia.

In these kind of situations having a good bunch of people really can make or break the trip, but thankfully for us the whole group got on like a house on fire. We purposefully shunned the hostel option in favour of camping in order to maximise the experience, a decision that most definitely paid off. It’s amazing how sharpened everyone’s social skills become in the absence of technology. After a BBQ dinner our evening’s were spent sat around the table, drinking goon (cheap Aussie wine in a bag), and swapping stories and drinking games. But the absolute highlight of our evenings on Fraser was undoubtedly the stargazing. We had heard that the lack of light pollution on the island allows for perfect visibility, but even that could not have prepared us for the sight that met us as we left our secluded campsite and stepped onto the beach. Looking up we were greeted by a breathtaking sky that can only be described as positively alive with stars. It was another moment that really reinforced to us just how lucky we are to be travelling and experiencing all of these amazing things.

Three days of bonding over awesome scenery, hilarious drinking games and our amusing attempts to manouver jeeps over sand dunes left us quite attached to both our group and island, and sad to say goodbye. Still, one thing was for sure: we were leaving with a load of new friends and even more new memories.