Tekapo: Mountains and Monopoly Madness

From the moment we stepped off the bus, Tekapo took our breath away. Set against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains and pine forests, all mirrored in a sparkling turquoise lake, you couldn’t picture a more quintessentially Kiwi town if you tried. Of course, the beautiful alpine scenery attracts a regular flow of visitors, but you wouldn’t know that from looking around. The town appears relatively untouched by tourism, sporting a single strip of shops consisting of a supermarket, a fuel station, and several cafes and restaurants.

The further south we travelled, the more we began to feel the cold creeping up on us, but thankfully our hostel was the perfect winter warmer. The beds were heaped with enough blankets to supply an arctic survival mission, and the common area was continually fed by a roaring log burner. A pleasant change of pace, the guys at Tailor Made Tekapo Backpackers had chosen to shun the standard bunk bed system, instead kitting the dorm out with rows of single beds. The result was that it felt like having a giant sleepover. Only with strangers. Who snore. We were even treated to individual bedside tables, lamps and plug sockets, a rare luxury! Unfortunately, despite all it’s redeeming qualities, the hostel did have one major flaw: the wifi. We tried our best to stifle our groans as the receptionist informed us that our free allocation was 100mb a day, after which an additionall 500mb could be purchased for just $2. Now, considering most mobile phone contracts include 1gb of data per month, this sounds like a fair deal. However, we had already experienced this particular wireless provider, Zappie, so we knew what to expect (or not expect!) 100mb, as we later proved, lasted a mere 10 minutes. 20 at a push, if you avoid videos, and sending media. In short, it was totally pointless. At first we were a little lost, wandering around contemplating how to fill our technology free evenings. After all, in 2015 internet is prioritised among the most basic  of commodities like water and oxygen. Luckily we discovered the hostel’s collection of board games, which ended up entertaining us for the majority of our stay. What started as one casual game of Monopoly escalated into a ferociously competitive tournament, spanning the three evenings we were in Tekapo.

If you’re a regular follower of our blog, you’ll know that prior to our arrival in Tekapo I had been placed on antibiotics for a severely swollen ankle, and instructed to rest it for the next two days. This presented no issue for our first day, which was spent settling in, unpacking and getting groceries. However, the weather forecast for our second day was sun, sun and more sun. Ideal conditions to take the 3 hour round trip up to the summit of Mount John, which provides panoramic views of Lake Tekapo and the many mountain ranges in the distance. After being forced to forgo the peninsular walk in Kaikoura, I was determined not to miss out on any more. The swelling was already subsiding, and the pain was gone, which was enough of a green light for me! Steep but otherwise easygoing, I managed to complete the walk without avoiding further injury. The views were incredible, and we indulged in a treat at the (strategically placed) summit cafe, making it well worth the walk. Mount John was just one of many walks available in Tekapo, of which Josh decided to explore more of on our second day. Not wanting to push my luck I decided to be sensible, and spend the day resting my foot, which turned out to be a wise decision. Sat in front of the fireplace, warm and dry, I couldn’t help but feel slightly smug when I heard the first raindrops hitting the window pane. Sorry Josh!

Once the scenery had been explored there was just one more thing to tick off our list: stargazing. Having recently been awarded the status of UNESCO dark-sky reserve, Tekapo is widely considered to be one of the best stargazing spots on the planet. Gloves, hats and scarves donned and torches in hand, we made our way out into the night and down to the lakefront. It’s no secret that the best stargazing spot is atop Mount John, where an observatory has been established by Canterbury University. But, frankly, it was cold and dark, and we didn’t fancy paying $129 for an official stargazing tour, so we made do. We were too close to town to avoid the light pollution, but it was a beautiful sight nonetheless, rivalled only by the incredible sky we had witnessed on Fraser Island.

With that we had pretty much exhausted all of the things to do in Tekapo, and were looking forward to our next adventure (and unlimited wifi!) So when we awoke on the morning of our departure, we were understandably horrified by the scene that greeted us:

Normally waking up to snow is a cause for excitement, as we pray that our schools/workplaces are closed for the day. However, in the middle of New Zealand’s winter snow only spells one thing: road closures and transport cancellations. In a tiny town with little to do and no free internet, the last thing we wanted was to be stranded for an extra day and night. Our bus wasn’t scheduled to depart until 1:40pm, so we spent the morning nervously watching from the window, muttering silent prayers for the snow to subside. And it seemed that someone heard us, because by some divine miracle it did indeed stop. By the time we made our way down to the bus stop the roads were clear, and the sun was well on it’s way to reducing the snow to a mess of grey slush. Close call!

Thrillseekers in Taupo

With such stunning countryside it’s no wonder scenic walks are in no short supply in New Zealand, with the Tongariro Alpine Crossing topping many lists as the best and most beautiful one day hike. A 19.4km track sees you ascend and descend the entire length of Mount Tongariro, taking in the panoramic views of crater lakes and neighbouring volcanic peaks (including Mount Ngauruhoe, or as it’s more commonly known, Mount Doom). There are some steep climbs involved, but with a well beaten path and even some staircases to help, most find it more than manageable:

(http://www.tongarirocrossing.org.nz/tongariro-alpine-crossing-track.html)

However, in the depth of winter it’s a different story altogether. Any trace of a path is removed, obscured by fresh snow reaching depths of up to 1.5 metres. In such conditions it’s virtually impossible to undertake the trek without the help of a guide and the appropriate equipment. Not wanting to miss out, we decided to give it a go, and booked a guided tour with a well recommended company called Adrift. It was only once we were kitted out with helmets, crampons, ice axes and what felt like a dozen layers that we realised how severe the weather conditions were going to be. Indeed, arriving at the base of the track our guide informed us that it was approximately -4 degrees, with a wind-chill factor of -10 *gulp*. Still, with all the snow the scene couldn’t have been more picture perfect:

And so we began the long ascent. The 8km climb to the peak was slippery and gruelling, taking approximately 5 hours to complete. We even lost a couple of people along the way due to cramp and pulled muscles. After such a long hard stretch, we were gutted when our guides announced that we would not be continuing for safety reasons. The conditions had changed considerably, they explained, and the snow was now loading on the side we would be descending on, increasing the risk of an avalanche. Disheartened, we turned around and began to trudge back down the way we had come. By the time we had reached the bottom once more, we had covered a distance of 16km, so not too far off the length of the orignal course. Nevertheless, we were suitably frustrated at not having completed the whole track. But, as our guide pointed out, they had been cancelling the trip entirely for the last week or so due to bad weather, so we were lucky to have made it as far as we did. Back in Taupo, munching on a (well deserved!) dominoes pizza, we reflected on the experience. Put into perspective, the views alone had been worth the hike, and the physical challenges had made it all the more rewarding. We hope to visit the park again in the future, this time in the summer, to pick up where we left off and finish the crossing.

From the very start, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing had been on our list of things to do in Taupo. Something that had not crossed our minds, however, was the possibility of white water rafting. That is, until we bumped into a couple we had previously met in Paihia, who were raving about their recent rafting experience on the Tongariro river. And that is how, in a moment of spontaneity, we found ourselves sat in the office of Rafting New Zealand, listening to our safety brief and memorising the protocol for falling out of the raft. In the dead of winter, rafting a river that is fed by snow covered mountains, I was far more concerned about the prospect of pneumonia than falling out. But the experts had thought of everything, and we were layered up accordingly: swimwear, fleece, wetsuit, second fleece, waterproof jacket, socks, boots, gloves and a beanie. As luck would have it, we were the only two people to have booked for that day, meaning we were treated to a private tour! Lugging the raft down to the riverbank, our guide, Owen, explained that we would be completing a 2 hour course involving 54 rapids. We couldn’t wait to get started! It didn’t take long before we had picked up the basics, and were cruising along like professionals (or so we liked to think):

If you couldn’t tell from the photo, we had an absolute blast. Skydiving and bungee jumping seem to have become something of a rite of passage for those visiting New Zealand, but at approximately a fourth of the cost and allowing us to appreciate the beautiful scenery at the same time, rafting was definitely the better option for us. Maybe we should act on impromptu decisions more often! After two days of back to back adventuring, we were suitably wiped out after our stay in Taupo. At least the five hour journey to Wellington gave us a chance to catch up on some well needed rest!

A Ramble in Rotorua: Glowworm Grottoes and Hobbit Holes

It’s no secret that New Zealand was the setting for much of Sir Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings adaptations. The combination of rolling green hills and snow topped mountains provided the perfect backdrop for the adventures of Frodo and his comrades. There are many spots around the country that have become points of pilgrimage for fans of the franchise, but it’s clear that there is one in particular that stands out. It was the Alexander family farm, located in the small village of Matamata, that inspired the directors vision for the hub of hobbit life, the shire. For the duration of the Lord of the Rings trilogy, and again for the Hobbit trilogy, the farm was transformed into the countryside haven of Tolkien’s imagination. Capitalising on the popularity of the films, the Alexander family chose to maintain the Hobbiton set as a permanent tourist attraction, thus immortalising this iconic part of middle earth:

And so it was that we found ourselves wandering around the shire, poking our heads into hobbit holes and meandering through garden patches. We even stopped for a drink in the Green Dragon! Unfortunately, as with most tourist attractions, the set was seriously crowded, and the tour rushed. As stalwart fans of both the books and the films we agreed it would have been better to have the option to tour the village at our own leisurely pace, but it was an incredible experience nevertheless, and we returned with a smile on our faces (if damp from the rain). And what could be a more fitting way to spend the remainder of the afternoon than curled up on the sofa, watching the first installment of the trilogy. It would seem that all hostels in New Zealand are prepared for the onslaught of Lord of the Rings fans, ensuring their DVD inventory is stocked with the full trilogy (much to our appreciation).

In addition to the mountains and green fields showcased in the Lord of the Rings, New Zealand’s richly diverse landscape is made up of impressive glaciers, lakes, volcanoes and geysers. The country is rife with geothermal activity, something that Rotorua in particular is famed for. As you arrive in the town a distinctive smell assails your nostrils that any keen scientist or geographer would recognise: Sulphur. Initially overwhelming, the strength of the smell is a good indicator of the extent of Rotorua’s geothermal action. Indeed, it is home to the famous Pohutu geyser, the largest geyser in the Southern Hemisphere capable of reaching heights of 30 metres:

Of course, as is the case in any country with a booming tourism industry, access to the geyser is only available through a handful of ‘geothermal parks.’ We chose to visit Te Puia, an impressive 70 hectare site that hosts an array of naturally occurring geothermal displays, including bubbling mud pools and hot springs. As well as showcasing geothermal wonders, Te Puia prides itself on being a Maori cultural centre. As we roamed the park we learnt of the many ways Maori tribes utilised geysers in everyday life, most interestingly for steaming food. Unfortunately the option to sample this method of cooking lay considerably outside our budget, so we stuck to our (much less glamorous) packed sandwiches!

Maintaining the theme of New Zealand’s natural phenomena, we made sure to schedule a visit to the village of Waitomo, a region famed for it’s abundance of caves. Of course, attracting thousands of tourists every year, these are no ordinary caves. Deep inside them dwells the native New Zealand glowworm, lighting up the dark in their masses. Many backpackers, perhaps keen to prove their adventurous side, opt for an abseiling/caving experience. Personally, we were content to witness the beauty of the glowworms in their natural setting, and took the tamer (and cheaper!) option of a standard tour. We consciously booked with a company that visit privately owned caves in small groups, to avoid the oversubscribed tour scenario we had experienced in Hobbiton. It turned out there would be just 12 of us visiting the caves that day, ensuring we could explore at our leisure. After donning our fetching helmets, complete with head torches, we began to make our way through the gloom, passing impressive stalactite and stalagmite formations along the way. Once deep inside, our guide instructed us to turn off our torches, and look up. A few minutes adjusting to the darkness was all it took before we began to register bright spots appearing above our heads, growing in number until the roof appeared as a sky of turquoise stars. Stood silently as if in a trance, we marveled at the breathtaking sight before us. Unfortunately, our substandard cameras were unable to distinguish the glowworms from the darkness, but thankfully our tour guide provided us with some professional photos, so we could share the magic we witnessed:

Our stay in Rotorua opened our eyes to some of New Zealand’s most stunning natural phenomena, leaving us awe-struck again and again. And this was just the start! Next up was the volcanic region of Taupo, famed for it’s stunning mountainous scenery and national parks. But first we had to wrench ourselves away from our amazing hostel, Rock Solid Backpackers, a steal at just $19 a night and by far the best equipped hostel we’ve ever stayed in.

Paihia: A Class in Culture

When travelling around New Zealand there are many options one can take, with regards to transportation. Renting a car is arguably the most convenient choice. If you’re looking for the true, ‘authentic’ experience, then perhaps a camper van is for you. As far as buses go, there are many companies offering packages that encompass hop-on hop-off transport, accommodation and activities, such as the stray bus and the kiwi experience. However, averaging at around $1500 a pass, these buses do not come cheap. So when we came across the Naked Bus Company, offering a 15 stop hop-on hop-off pass for just $160, we leapt at the chance. Sure, the service they offer is ‘no frills’, and they’re notorious for lateness, but for that price who could complain! Still, we were understandably nervous as we made our way down to Auckland bus depo for our first journey. Rounding the corner, however, it turned out that we needn’t have been. The bust was there waiting for us 15 minutes early. It even had free wifi! We arrived at our destination, Paihia, on time and with no issues to speak of. So far so good!

A small town located in the country’s Northland region, it’s easy to see why Paihia is a popular stop along New Zealand’s tourist trail. As well as being situated in the beautiful Bay of Islands, it’s just a few kilometres from the famous historical settlement areas of Russel and Waitangi. We allotted four nights and three full days in Paihia, and we filled them all with ease. First up on our long list of activities was a day trip to Cape Reinga. The second most northern point in the whole of New Zealand, the Cape is a site of great significance both geographically and culturally. It’s the point at which the Tasman Sea to the West of New Zealand meets the Pacific Ocean. But in Maori culture it’s symbolism extends further than merely the meeting of two oceans. Tradition dictates that the Cape acts as a final point of departure for Maori spirits exiting the mortal world, a belief that is upheld by today’s Maori tribes. Our learning experience was enhanced by the fact that our tour guide was in fact Maori, so was able to fully enlighten us about their customs and beliefs. A great example of this was a brief stopover we made to visit a Kauri forest. Maori people are spiritually connected with nature, our guide explained to us. They believe in two primitive parents, the sky father and the earth mother, who bore many children between them. It was one of those children, Maori lore states, that forced the mother and father apart: Tane, god of the forest. And so it came to be that there were trees to separate the earth from the sky, creating space for life in between. Our guide demonstrated the traditional song Maori people use to greet the forest, as well as providing an overview of the significance and uses of the Kauri tree in their culture. The essence of travel is in immersing yourself in other cultures, something that we at least partially achieved that day. Our trip was rounded off with a spot of sand-boarding down the dunes, and a scenic drive down the impressive 90 mile beach. We even spotted a few seal pups!

Continuing our effort to learn more of Maori culture and history, we decided to visit the Waitangi treaty grounds. Prior to our visit we knew virtually nothing of the discovery of New Zealand, or the arrival of European settlers, a fundamental part of the country’s history. We took up the offer of a guided tour of the grounds, made all the more interesting by the fact that our guide was of Maori descent himself. As well as simply providing the facts he explained the importance of the treaty in a personal context. Signed in 1840, the treaty marked the beginning of a co-existence between European settlers and Maori people, a relationship that continues to be honoured in modern society. For this reason Waitangi is a place of significant importance to New Zealanders of both Maori and European descent, and a popular destination for tourists. As if that wasn’t all fascinating enough, we were treated to a cultural performance of important aspects of Maori culture such as song, dance, and combat to top it all off. We left having been educated and entertained in equal measure!

In addition to it’s historical significance, Paihia is also renowned for it’s stunning scenery. Home to around 140 islands and a host of marine life including dolphins, orca and seals, a visit to the Bay of Islands just wouldn’t be complete without a boat tour. After meticulously examining and cross-referencing a variety of weather forecasts, we settled on a morning and booked the trip. Thankfully our planning paid off, and we were rewarded with blue skies and bright sun, perfect conditions to explore the bay in. We had been warned that the presence of several orca a few days ago would likely hinder our chances of seeing any dolphins but, as luck would have it, we came across a giant pod, and they were willing to play. Jumping, rolling, circling the boat and even following us when we eventually began to move away, it was hard to believe that these were wild animals, and not those bred and trained for human audiences. It turned out there were more animal appearances in store for us, as we sailed past a pod of seals lounging on some rocks, and even a stingray basking in the shallows. We tried to contain our smugness as we made our way back to the hostel, knowing full well that many of our roommates had failed to spot even a dolphin on their trip.

Visits to Russel, including the famous Flagstaff Hill, and a 10km walk to Haruru falls completed our checklist for Paihia. At the end of the three days we were understandably exhausted! Thankfully our hostel, the Mousetrap, was full of cosy corners with roaring fires, an ideal setting to rest and reboot before our next adventure.

Cairns: The End of the East Coast Road

When we first arrived in Australia, everyone’s response to our bemoaning the weather was: “don’t worry, it will get warmer as you travel north.” So we had held out hope, eagerly testing the air as we arrived at each new destination. True, the temperature had grown slightly milder, but it wasn’t until we arrived in Cairns that we were finally able to cast off the jumpers and dig out our long lost flip flops. Considering our plans for our final destination in Australia stretched no further than chilling out and squandering our remaining spending money, the weather fitted in pretty perfectly. Equally ideal was our hostel, Travellers Oasis which, as the name suggests, provides the perfect refuge for those seeking relaxation as opposed to a party hostel. Complete with a swimming pool, hammocks, movie room and outdoor BBQ area, we questioned whether we would need to go out at all!

Of course, that isn’t to say that there aren’t any exciting activities you can do in Cairns. As well as the obvious snorkelling/scuba diving on the barrier reef, there are day trips to Port Douglas and the Kuranda rainforest on offer, to name a few. Unfortunately these activities lay just outside of our remaining budget, not that we were too disheartened. In four weeks we’d managed to tick off the Sydney Harbour Bridge climb, the Blue Mountains, Australia Zoo, Fraser Island and the Whitsundays, plus loads of stops in between. A pretty awesome trip! From the early stages of planning we had always maintained realistic ideas about how far our time and money would stretch. So rather than seeing them as missed opportunities, we saw the things we hadn’t got round to doing as reasons to revisit in the future. What money we did have leftover was spent treating ourselves to a few meals out and some fruit ciders, a classy upgrade from the usual goon (wine in a bag)! To compensate, we utilised the waterfront esplanade for daily runs, as well as taking advantage of the free gym equipment. We soon realised that months without exercising had left our once physically fit body’s in pretty poor shape, and vowed to continue running several times a week for the remainder of our trip. A blissful few days with a little indulgence was the perfect way to round off our time in Australia, and to perk ourselves up again in time for what was sure to be an action packed 6 weeks in New Zealand.

It was incredible to think that as our stay in Cairns drew to a close, so too did our time in our sixth country. Australia had re-acquainted us with the normalities of the western world, both good and bad, and for that it was at a slight disadvantage. Southeast Asia had been colourful, cultural, crazy and most importantly, cheap, everything Australia was not. When you’re hopping from country to country and continent to continent It’s almost impossible to sit back and judge a place impartially, and, regrettably, I’ll admit that the profound affection I had come to feel for Southeast Asia affected my perception of Australia. In the interest of fairness I would point out that Josh and I disagree on this point, proving that a country really can appeal to people differently. One thing we could both agree on, however, was how excited we were for the next (and final!) chapter of our adventure, New Zealand.

A Whitsunday Wash-out

Pure white silica sand. Calm turquoise waters. Blue skies. These are just a few of the images synonymous with the Whitsundays, a string of around 70 paradise islands located just off the great barrier reef. Understandably, the islands are extremely popular with tourists and not to be missed on a visit to Australia’s east coast. After striking gold with a great tour company and amazing weather for our tour of Fraser Island, we were hoping our luck would hold out for the Whitsundays. However, assessing the grey skies and rough waters as our boat sailed away from the mainland, our hearts instantly sank. Yes, as I’m sure you have guessed from the title, we were struck by a bout of bad weather that lasted the duration of our tour of the Whitsundays. What should have been a fun and relaxing trip, lounging in the sun whilst sailing around tropical waters, turned into cowering from the rain whilst attempting to keep the sea-sickness at bay. Unfortunately beaches just aren’t something you can enjoy and appreciate in bad weather, and after spending a considerable amount of money on the tour, we were suitably disappointed.

The most popular destination in the Whitsundays and considered by many to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, our first stop was Whitehaven beach. Despite the less than favourable weather conditions the stretch of white sand and azure water still made for an impressive view, although we couldn’t be tempted in for a swim. Thankfully we had more luck with the snorkeling. We donned our fetching stinger suits (a necessity due to the high numbers of sting rays and jellyfish in the area), and plunged into the water. Due to their close proximity to the great barrier reef the Whitsundays make for a bountiful snorkelling spot. We found ourselves swimming among an array of fish, a few jellyfish and even a turtle but, much to our relief, no man-eating sharks! Unfortunately the water temperature was less than comfortable, and our stinger suits provided merely a thin layer of insulation, so we managed just half an hour before the lure of a dry towel became too much.

The real saving grace of the trip was the awesome bunch of people we spent it with, some of whom we already knew from our Fraser island tour. Our evening’s were spent in a state of moderate intoxication enjoying a range of activities including flip cup and karaoke, which helped distract us all from our mutual disappointment over the rest of the tour. It’s fair to say that the end of the two days couldn’t come quick enough, and we arrived back on the mainland cold, wet and definitely not having found our sea legs! After getting over the initial disappointment of being let down by both the tour company and the weather, we consoled ourselves with the promise of returning to the Whitsundays in the future, ensuring we take a little more care when planning both the season and travel agent.

Noosa: Noisy Neighbours and Native Friends

Famously home to the legendary “croc hunter,” the late Steve Irwin, Australia Zoo is an absolute must for anyone travelling the country’s popular East Coast. An establishment known for it’s pioneering work in animal conservation, protection and rehabilitation, it’s clear to see that animal welfare is top priority at the zoo. The mass open spaces and lack of cages makes for a more enjoyable and relaxing experience for both visitors and animals. Housing a variety of species from across the planet, ranging from Asian tigers to African rhinos, there was so much on offer that it actually proved difficult to fit everything in! Being staunch animal lovers, having the opportunity to get up close and personal with some of Australia’s native species was a dream come true. From hand feeding kangaroos to stroking koalas, the level of animal interaction was unparalleled by any other zoo we had visited. Of course, we couldn’t leave without a visit to the iconic ‘crocoseum’, which hosted many of Steve’s famous croc shows. Featuring a 5 metre saltwater crocodile and a range of stunts involving jumping, swimming and a piece of steak for persuasive purposes, the show most certainly lived up to it’s famous reputation. Steve would have been proud! Other highlights included rare red pandas, Australian snakes, the cutest wombats imaginable and a fantastic walk-through aviary. 

The zoo is accessible from either Brisbane or Noosa and, in what turned out to be an unwise decision, we chose to visit from Noosa, expecting it to be the quieter of the two. In actual fact, as anyone who has read the previous post will know, our stay in Brisbane turned out to be a fairly uneventful one. In contrast, the small seaside town of Noosa surprised us. Whether it’s walking in the national park, taking a surfing lesson, canoeing the everglades or taking a sunset river cruise, the list of things on offer in Noosa seemed endless. Not to mention the town’s charming array of shops and cafes, and of course picturesque beaches. We were positively kicking ourselves! Aside from the zoo we managed to complete some of the recommended walks along the coastline and through the national park, and were even rewarded with a sighting of a wild koala! A discount voucher meant we stayed in Halse Lodge, an old colonial style building that had been converted into a multi-purpose restaurant, bar and guesthouse. The accommodation was pleasant, although due to the building’s old fashioned design extremely cold at night (each room had a door to the outside veranda, complete with open slats above it). However, it soon became clear that this was in fact the least of our worries. As our heads hit the pillow on our first night, all seemed well. Then suddenly, out of nowhere, a noise akin to that of a wild boar in extreme pain rang through our dorm. Alarmed, we sat up, half expecting to see a giant animal in our midst. Alas, as the noise continued in fluctuating decibels, the horrific reality dawned on us; it was snoring, and it was coming from the guy in the bed next to us. Over the course of the next three nights a variety of remedies were put to the test: earplugs, headphones, early nights, late nights. But it seemed the relentlessly noisy slumber of the snorlax (as we appropriately nicknamed him) was not so easily drowned out. The only major downside to our otherwise awesome time in Noosa, it’s fair to say that as soon as our bus from Noosa to Hervey Bay pulled away from the station, we were both out like a light.

Brisbane: The River City

A typical urban sprawl set against a skyline of bridges and high-rise buildings, we were unsure of what to expect of Brisbane. Speaking to other travellers the general consensus appeared to be that it wasn’t necessarily worth a visit and, at the end of our three nights stay, we were inclined to agree. Compared to the  only other Australian City we had visited, Sydney, we found Brisbane to be considerably lacking in charm or atmosphere. In fairness, it’s clearly a metropolitan hub that caters more for business and locals instead of tourists, which perhaps explains why we didn’t find our visit particularly exciting.

Offering the usual selection of museums and gardens, there was enough to fill a day in Brisbane, but nothing that made the city a particularly unique experience. Brisbane, or ‘Brissy’ as it’s referred to in the local lingo, boasts several museums that are interesting, educational and, most importantly, free, which tend to be overlooked by backpackers in favour of the city’s notorious nightlife. The Museum of Brisbane was, as one would expect, an informative guide to the formation of the city, detailing everything from it’s aboriginal origins to it’s namesake and problematic geography. We learnt a lot about the centrality of the river to the city’s prosperity, and it’s importance to local people. Better still was Queenstown museum, providing a timeline of Australian history covering everything from dinosaurs and the world wars to a catalogue of the country’s modern day species. Speaking of which, we were lucky enough to spot several natives during our outings in Brisbane. After taking a stroll along the riverfront we briefly rested on a park bench. Leaning back, I noticed something sinister looking out of the corner of my eye. Upon further inspection it turned out we had parked ourselves right next to the home of a large spider, not something you want to come to close to in Australia! Less alarming was the furry little fellow we spotted hiding in the Roma Street Gardens, a common but shy Australian possum, most likely on the lookout for picnic leftovers! 

Aside from our animal encounters and several interesting museums, there was little in Brisbane that captivated us. The Australian east Coast boasts so many destinations that are beautiful, quickly, vibrant or indeed all three, but for us Brisbane didn’t tick any of these boxes. 

Gold Coast: Surfers Paradise (Without the Surfing)

Notorious for it’s optimal surfing conditions (as the name suggests), Surfers paradise is very much a hub of activity, more specifically watersports, shopping, eating and drinking. Unfortunately for us backpackers none of these activities comes particularly cheap, so it’s fair to say we didn’t experience Surfers Paradise to it’s full potential. In fact, the extent of our expenditure was a $5 fish and chips, which just seemed to good an offer to turn down! The majority of our time was spent on the notoriously idyllic beach, soaking up the surprisingly warm weather. We even dug out the shorts that had been relegated to the bottom of our backpacks following our departure from Asia! Sadly, the water couldn’t quite be deemed warm enough for a dip, and as if this wasn’t enough of a deterrent, the constantly patrolling shark-watch helicopters certainly put us off! Nevertheless between the beach, nearby parks and Sunday night market, we managed to fill our time nicely. My (very generously given, for any family that are reading!) birthday money was also an unexpected bonus, which meant I could actually indulge in a rare spot of clothes shopping! $95 later I was kitted out with a new bikini, shirt and woolly scarf, and had well and truly satisfied my inner material girl.

It hadn’t taken much for us to deduce that hostels in Australia, in comparison to those in Asia, are not particularly generous. In the short time we had been there we had already encountered charges for everything from Wifi to cutlery! So our hostel in Surfers, ‘Down Under’, was a bit of an anomaly. Washers, dryers, laundry detergent, Wifi and apple mac computers were all readily available for guest use free of charge. As if all of this wasn’t enough, they even hosted a free BBQ on one of the evenings. The word ‘free’ is without a doubt the most effective hook you can use to entice backpackers, and it most definitely worked for us. We were first in line to offload our laundry, pile our plates with burgers and sausages, and begin researching a New Zealand itinerary on the computers. So whilst the area’s bars, shops and restaurants weren’t particularly budget friendly, our hostel certainly was!